CASTILLO DE LOS TEMPLARIOS DE PONFERRADA
The Camino de Santiago
The history of Ponferrada Castle is closely tied to the Camino de Santiago. According to Christian tradition, James the Great, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus Christ, embarked on a mission to spread the teachings of Christianity in Hispania (modern-day Spain and Portugal). During the first century AD. James, often referred to as “the Great” or “the Son of Thunder,” is believed to have journeyed across the Mediterranean to evangelise in distant lands, including the Iberian Peninsula.
After completing his mission in Hispania, James returned to Jerusalem, where he met a tragic fate. King Herod Agrippa I, seeking to please the Jewish authorities, ordered the execution of James in 44 AD. This event is recorded in the New Testament Book of Acts (Acts 12:1-2). It mentions that James was the first apostle to be martyred for his faith.
“It was about this time that King Herod arrested some who belonged to the church, intending to persecute them. He had James, the brother of John, put to death with the sword.” (Acts 12:1-2)
The martyrdom of James the Great further solidified his significance in Christian tradition and contributed to his veneration as a saint. According to legend, James’ disciples transported his body back to Hispania, where it was buried in a hidden location. Centuries later, in the 9th century AD, the tomb of Saint James was reportedly rediscovered in Galicia, leading to the establishment of Santiago de Compostela as a major pilgrimage destination.
The Iron Bridge – Pons Ferrarata
In Ponferrada, Bishop Osmundo ordered the construction of an iron-reinforced bridge over the Sil River around 1090 AD. This bridge, known as Pons Ferrata (Latin for “iron bridge”), was designed to facilitate the safe passage of pilgrims travelling along the Camino de Santiago. The construction of Pons Ferrata played an important role in supporting the growing pilgrimage traffic. It contributed to the emergence of settlements near the bridge, laying the foundation for the future city of Ponferrada.
The Knights Templar
The arrival of the Knights Templar at Ponferrada Castle in 1178 further underscored the region’s political and military significance. The Templars, renowned for their martial prowess and unwavering commitment to protecting Christian interests, were tasked with safeguarding the Camino de Santiago and its pilgrims from potential threats, including Muslim invasions and bandit raids.
The presence of the Templars in Ponferrada also served the interests of the reigning monarchs, Ferdinand II of León and Alfonso IX of León. By entrusting the Templars with the defence of Ponferrada and the surrounding territories, the kings sought to strengthen their authority and consolidate Christian control in the region. The Templars’ military capabilities and organisational structure made them valuable allies in the ongoing struggle against Muslim incursions and internal rivalries.
Additionally, the presence of the Templars in Ponferrada helped to mitigate potential conflicts between Galician and Leonese nobles vying for control over the territory. By establishing a neutral military force loyal to the crown, Ferdinand II and Alfonso IX aimed to maintain stability and prevent power struggles that could undermine the region’s security and prosperity.
The Templars’ tenure in Ponferrada during the 13th century was marked by significant developments within the castle walls and in their broader territorial holdings. Outside the castle walls, the Templars reinforced and expanded the fortifications of Ponferrada Castle, enhancing its defensive capabilities and solidifying its status as a stronghold. They erected various dependencies inside the castle, including a Templar convent, pallozas (traditional roundhouses), homes, cellars, bread ovens, and orchards. These structures served as essential components of the Templar compound, providing accommodations, storage, and sustenance for the knights and their entourage.
In the early 13th century, King Alfonso IX of León ceded the lordship of Ponferrada to the Templars, granting them control over the castle and surrounding territories, including the nearby fortress of Cornatel. During this time, the legend of a secret passageway connecting Ponferrada Castle and Cornatel Castle emerged, symbolising the interconnectedness of Templar holdings and the strategic importance of their defensive network.
By the turn of the 14th century, the Order of the Temple had amassed considerable wealth, territory, and military strength, boasting a network of 870 castles, substantial riches, and a large contingent of knights across Europe. However, the Templars’ growing power and influence aroused suspicion and apprehension among European leaders, leading to accusations of heresy, corruption, and other serious sins.
Dissolution of the Knights Templar and the return of the castle to Monarchy
In 1307, Pope Clement V issued a papal bull calling for the dissolution of the Order of the Temple under pressure from King Philip IV of France and other European monarchs.
In response to the papal decree, the Master of the Templars, Rodrigo Yáñez, negotiated with various parties, including Queen María de Molina of Castile. As part of these negotiations, agreements were reached regarding transferring Templar properties, including Ponferrada Castle, to the Crown.
Despite initial agreements between Rodrigo Yáñez and Queen María de Molina, complications arose when the Templar Master made arrangements with Infante Don Felipe, handing over rights to Ponferrada and other properties. This led to a dispute between Infante Don Juan, uncle of King Ferdinand IV, and Infante Don Felipe over the ownership of Ponferrada Castle.
Queen Mother María de Molina intervened to resolve the conflict, warning Infante Don Felipe of the Pope’s accusations against the Templars and advising him to comply with the papal orders. As a result, Infante Don Felipe relinquished his claim to Ponferrada and other Templar properties, ultimately handing them over to King Ferdinand IV.
Death of King Ferdinand IV of Castille – The Emplazado
The death of King Ferdinand IV of Castile, commonly known as “the Emplazado” or “the Summoned,” remains shrouded in mystery and intrigue. Ferdinand IV’s sudden demise on September 7, 1312, in Jaén raised suspicions and fueled speculation about his death’s circumstances.
Ferdinand IV’s reign had been marked by internal strife, conflicts with neighbouring kingdoms, and challenges to his authority from rival factions within his realm. His death under mysterious circumstances only added to the uncertainty and instability of the period.
The epithet “the Emplazado” refers to a medieval tradition known as “emplazamiento,” in which an individual was summoned to appear before a court or tribunal to answer for alleged crimes or offences. Some historians suggest Ferdinand IV may have earned this moniker due to his involvement in legal disputes or conflicts during his reign.
Upon Ferdinand IV’s death, his legitimate son, Alfonso XI, succeeded him as King of Castile and León. Alfonso XI faced the daunting task of consolidating royal authority, managing internal dissent, and navigating external threats to the kingdom. Despite the shadow cast by his father’s mysterious death, Alfonso XI would rule Castile for over three decades, significantly impacting the kingdom’s history and politics.
In 1340, King Alfonso XI granted the lordship of Ponferrada to Pedro Fernández de Castro. Under Pedro’s direction, construction began on the Old Castle, with the construction of the Old Tribute Tower, which bore the family shield of the Castro lineage.
Pedro Fernández de Castro’s familial situation added complexity to the succession of Ponferrada Castle. With two descendants from his second marriage, Fernando and Juana de Castro, and two children from an extramarital relationship, Álvaro and Inés, disputes and rivalries emerged over inheritance rights.
After years of disputes and successions within the Castro family, Ponferrada Castle and its associated assets ultimately returned to the Crown. From there, they passed into the hands of the Duke of Arjona, who left his mark on the castle by constructing a new tower within the Old Castle complex.
Legend or History
According to legend, thirty days before his death, Ferdinand IV ordered the execution of the Carvajal brothers for their alleged involvement in the murder of Juan Alonso de Benavides, a nobleman deprived of the king.
The legend goes on to describe the execution of the Carvajal brothers in a particularly gruesome manner. They were purportedly enclosed inside an iron cage with sharp spikes and then thrown from the top of Peña de Martos. Before their deaths, the brothers professed their innocence and cursed the king, predicting that he would face divine judgment within thirty days.
While this legend has captured the imagination of storytellers and historians alike, the integrity of such accounts is often difficult to ascertain. Historical records from the time are scarce, and many details surrounding Ferdinand IV’s death remain unclear.
However, it is known that Ferdinand IV died under mysterious circumstances in Jaén on September 7, 1312. Speculation and rumours about foul play, poisoning, or assassination have persisted throughout history, but conclusive evidence to support these theories is lacking.
The First Count of Lemos
Pedro Álvarez Osorio, the first Count of Lemos, played a pivotal role in the history and development of Ponferrada Castle during the 15th century. His marriage to Beatriz de Castro, heiress of the Duke of Arjona, solidified his position as the owner of the lordship of Ponferrada and provided him with the resources and influence necessary to undertake significant expansions and renovations of the castle complex.
Under Pedro Álvarez Osorio’s stewardship, Ponferrada Castle underwent extensive renovations and enhancements, transforming it into a formidable fortress and a symbol of noble power and prestige. Some of the notable improvements and additions made to the castle during this period include:
– The construction of five new towers within the castle complex: Moclín, Caracoles, Cabrera, Malvecino, and Malpica. These towers served defensive and residential purposes, providing additional living quarters for the castle’s inhabitants while bolstering its defensive capabilities.
– A new main entrance, fortified with defensive features such as gates, portcullises, and barbicans, was erected to control access to the castle and enhance its security.
– The defensive walls of Ponferrada Castle were extended and reinforced, incorporating additional rounds and battlements to improve its ability to withstand sieges and attacks.
-A mine and cave system, Cueva la Mora, was constructed to provide discreet access to the Sil River, further enhancing the castle’s strategic position and logistical capabilities.
The Tower of Homage, a symbol of feudal authority and lordship, was constructed within the Old Castle complex. It is a prominent feature of the castle’s skyline and a testament to its owner’s power and influence.
– The construction of a new palace within the castle grounds is intended for use as stately dependencies and residential quarters. Part of this palace was built upon ancient Templar remains from the 12th century, underscoring the castle’s layered history and evolution over time.
Creation of the Marquises of Villafranca
To resolve the inheritance dispute following the death of the first Count of Lemos, the Catholic Monarchs intervened by creating and granting the noble title of the Marquises of Villafranca to the marriage between Juana de Osorio y Bazán, the firstborn of the count, and Rodrigo Alonso Pimentel, the firstborn of the Count of Benavente—this decision aimed to address the familial and legal complexities surrounding the inheritance of the Lemos estate.
Unfortunately, the lack of investment and attention to the maintenance of Ponferrada Castle during this period resulted in visible signs of deterioration and decay. The infrastructure of the Old Castle, including its dependencies and the walls and towers of the entire fortress, began to show signs of neglect and disrepair. Without ongoing efforts to preserve and protect the castle’s architectural heritage, its condition deteriorated.
The 20th Century
The Castle of the Templars in Ponferrada experienced a period of neglect and decline during modern times, facing the threat of becoming a ruin. However, efforts to preserve and protect its historical and cultural significance eventually emerged, leading to its designation as a National Monument in 1924 and subsequent classification as a Property of Cultural Interest (BIC).
In 1924, recognizing the importance of the Castle of the Templars as a significant historical and architectural landmark, it was protected as a National Monument—this designation aimed to safeguard the castle from further deterioration and prevent actions that could compromise its integrity.
Throughout the 20th century, urban development in Ponferrada encroached upon the castle’s surroundings. Buildings, courtyards, and cellars were constructed adjacent to the castle, encroaching upon its external pit and weakening its foundations.
The 20th century saw significant economic and urban growth in Ponferrada, driven by mining activity and the construction of the Ponferrada-Villablino railway in 1918. This period witnessed the establishment of important companies and the emergence of new economic activities in the region.
Despite its protected status, the Castle of the Templars faced challenges and neglect. In 1923, plans to build a soccer field inside the castle raised concerns about potential damage to its structure. The castle was declared a National Monument a year later to prevent actions that could endanger its integrity.
By the late 20th century, the castle’s deteriorating condition prompted its closure to the public in 1994 due to the risk of sinking. This led to renewed efforts to restore the castle. The Master Plan initiated in 1994 and spearheaded by the City Council of Ponferrada and architect Fernando Cobos Guerra, aimed to clarify its historical significance and rehabilitate degraded spaces while respecting the castle’s original layout.
The 20th century witnessed challenges and efforts to preserve and revitalize the Castle of the Templars in Ponferrada, highlighting its enduring importance as a cultural heritage site and symbol of the region’s rich history.
It is very much worth a visit, but you need to allow a couple of hours!
Buen Camino!